Though attributed to Picasso and many others, the statement "Good artists borrow, and great artists steal" is never more true than with custom painting. It's especially accurate when candy painting is used as the medium for creating that just-right effect.
Knowing how to use candies and how versatile the medium is can open the door to the next thing in custom painting. Unfortunately, many who dabble in candy effects don't know how to use it to their advantage, how vastly versatile it is, and how endless combinations of effects can be created by understanding how it works. Candy paint remains one of the most widely used techniques when designing custom paint projects, and it continues to evolve as custom painting matures.
Custom painter Joe Bailon was the developer of candy paint – candy apple red started it. The legend is that while cruising one night, he became entranced by the glow of red taillights and decided he would like to develop a color effect similar to it. After experimenting with various colors and combinations, he produced the first candy color in 1956.
How does candy work?
Candy is a translucent color sprayed over a base color, so the base effect (often metallic, mica, flake or a vast array of other combinations) influences the final color. Originally, the base coats were silver, gold, black, or white with a red-tinted clear coat sprayed over it. The silver or gold metallic beneath the red-tinted clear coat would develop depth and shimmer, producing a result similar to the taillights Bailon first noted.
Though the technique has evolved to use many different base colors, the original theory still is used. The technique has found its way into mainstream automotive production with the development of tri-stage paints. The undercolor (ground coat) has a tinted clear color (mid-coat) painted over it, and then is protected by a clear coat (topcoat).
Most painters typically follow a certain paint formula or buy premixed candy paint, but with practice and recordkeeping, even newcomers to the method can mix their own candy colors to produce stunning color combinations.
Most paint companies have an intermediate clear, usually noncatalyzed, which will act as the clear coat that'll be tinted. (It may be called a colorless base.) Tints or pearl can be added to produce the desired effect.
If a candy blue is what you want, reduce the clear and add the blue that will give you the color you seek. A little pearl also can be added, but remember that a little goes a long way. Often, the pearl may not be that visible until you get out in the sun to realize its true effect so don't overdo it.
Also, remember candy can be tricky to spray. If the gun isn't adjusted properly and doesn't atomize correctly, the color can look blotchy or mottled.
Additionally, a 75 percent overlap is critical, so the paint doesn't streak. Lastly, if a large project, such as a car, is to be painted and the laps, such as door and fender, aren't carefully applied, the color can look darker at the overlap.
Jon Kosmoski, the godfather of custom paint, suggests that when painting multiple panels on the side of a car, the painter should paint all the panels together from the quarter panel down the side to the fender, walking the length of the vehicle as one long panel, to avoid any overlaps and, thus, color changes.
A common question people ask about candy paints is:
"How many coats should be applied?"
Remember, the candy color is for effect only, so put it on until you get the color or effect you're looking for and stop. The clear will protect the paint job from the elements.
A related question that must be addressed is film thickness. In candy painting, as well as in many other custom paint works, multiple layers of paint can build up quickly, so applying in thin layers is best.
The candy project described is a smaller one but incorporates several techniques to enhance the effect.
Preparing
Prepping for custom paint is no different than for any other painting project, and because this is plastic, washing becomes critical. I triple washed the surface. First with soap and hot water to remove as much of the mold release agent as possible. Then, I did the second wash and scuffed the surface with sanding paste and a gray scuff pad, rinsing it with lots of clear, clean water. Finally, I cleaned it with a plastic wax and grease remover.
Just to make sure it was clean enough to proceed, I pulled a gloved finger over the surface, looking for a streak. If one appeared, even a slight one, I'd repeat the process.
Though I know this welding helmet isn't a polyolefin plastic and may not require an adhesion promoter during the washing process, it became evident the mold release agent wasn't coming off easily. I also know adhesion promoter won't cause harm if used when not needed, so I opted to spray the helmet with a promoter for safety reasons, I didn't want the project to peel after all the work it required.
Sealing
As with other paint projects, a sealer provides an excellent base for everything to follow, and to assure paint will adhere to the plastic surface, a good sealer will be sprayed next. The paint brand I used requires two coats be applied for good adhesion and holdout. Knowing that many coats will follow, I try keeping coverage to a minimum to help guard against excess film build.
Allowing the paint to flash for the proper amount of time also is critical to avoid solvent popping. Quick multiple layers of solvent-rich paint can quickly build up and cause popping when the clear is applied.
Again, because film build is critical, the choice of silver color (value) is critical. A light gray is applied, so the basecoat won't need to compete with the sealer color for coverage.
Silver base
A metallic base needs to be applied. It will act as the shimmering effect of the blue candy that will be applied. The helmet was sprayed with large-flake metallic silver with no other pigment. Large silver metallic can be tricky to spray, and proper gun technique and adjustment is needed. It helps to practice on masking paper. Making sure the gun is operating correctly will assure the silver will spray on without streaking or mottling.
Apply only enough silver metallic so the sealer is covered. In this case, two coats did well. Look over the paint job well following the base coat for imperfections caused by light coverage. If none are found, let it dry before the intermediate step.
Intermediate/colorless base
For painters with experience and confidence, the application of a colorless intermediate basecoat could be skipped. Many painters use one, though, for two main reasons. First, it provides a barrier coat for everything that has been done so far. If something has to be repaired when the stencils or subsequent colors are applied, everything underneath this layer is easier to keep intact.
When spraying paint that may need to be left longer than suggested when the surface is scuffed, the paint underneath will remain in good shape, so if it's near the end of the day, or if the remaining paint applications may be tricky, a coat or two of intermediate clear should be applied. It should be allowed to dry, while the stencils are prepared.
Stencil making
Vinyl stencil cutting has opened up the opportunity to a larger number of creative people, or better put, the opportunity for people to discover their creativity without spending years mastering the mechanics of layout and application.
With aid of a computer, one can design, plot, and cut a spray-through pattern in minutes. If you don't have a stencil cutter, many companies will do cutting for you for a small cost. Once a design is made and sized, multiple copies can be produced quickly.
Stencil application
If you're going to use a standard vinyl company, make sure it has the correct stencil material needed. The type needed is normally not colored and has glue that allows the stencil to be removed easily after the paint has dried. Stencil vinyl glue doesn't grab as hard as standard vinyl lettering, so it can be applied without lubricant.
If the first application is slightly out of place, it can be moved. Take care when applying a stencil, since intricate ones are fragile still. Mask down the edges, so no paint will creep under it, and be sure all the edges of the design are pressed tightly to the surface. Paint can, and will, creep under any opening it reaches.
Second base coat
To make the stenciled areas show through the candy blue, a metallic gold is applied. It's sprayed like the silver to cover properly. There are two coats in this application.
The darker gold will show as deeper blue when the candy is applied. The paint is allowed to flash while an air brush with a shading color is prepared.
Shading
Shading (or drop-shadow) is applied to the stencil to give the lettering depth. It's not obvious to most observers, but it gives the lettering depth. Most believe black is the most often used shadow, but a better choice with blue candy will be a dark purple, such as eggplant purple. It'll produce the darker shadows that are desired without mudding up the color.
The shading is applied to the lower third or less of the design. Don't worry that a slight amount may get on the upper end of the second and third row of lettering. It'll still give the desired effect. Let the coatings dry, and carefully lift the stencils from the surface of the silver. If nothing needs to be repaired, tack the project, and apply the candy.
Candy application
Mix and reduce a colorless clear, then tint it with the color you're looking for (in this case bright blue with a slight amount of blue pearl), stirring it well to make sure all the pigment is mixed and overreducing it by about 10 percent. Then the candy is ready to apply.
Carefully adjust the gun, and spray a practice stroke on masking paper to make sure it atomizes and covers well. When the gun is ready to go, apply the color. Spray until you get the color you desire.
In this case, it took two coats. I wanted the stenciled decoration underneath to be visible but not dominate. If you're looking for a more subdued effect, such as a ghost effect, more candy blue should be applied.
However, the blue doesn't change. The underlying colors become less predominant. When you have the effect you want, stop.
Clear coat
A clear coat isn't much different than spraying it at any other time. Cover the project with the recommended amount of coats and use your normal clear coat technique. Some painters overreduce their clear by 10 percent to make it lie flatter.
If that's your normal technique, then do it. The clear is your glamour coat, and you want it to lie flat and smooth. If applied well, no polishing will be necessary.
Candy paint is a vastly creative and versatile paint medium – and modern stencil making equipment can make an inexperienced custom painter creative, so use your imagination and create the latest effects in custom painting.
